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The front plate had the aerial support and the front light attached. The Light had been drilled out and reamed with a dental tool which will have either a lens fitted or be filled with clear PVA to represent the glass. Using thin copper wire the light was “wired up”, the wire going into a hole drilled into the light then being bent and glued into place alone the front panel, up the side and then along the top of the fender to the engine bay side wall with superglue.
A point worth remembering when detailing kits is to try and acquire items which will help for nothing. Copper wire can be purchased but if you have any electrical items which are being thrown out due to being faulty look inside for transformers or electric motors which are a great source of copper wire in different sizes depending on the item being disposed of. To straighten, unwind as good amount and then cut it. Put one end in a vice or wrap around one side of pliers and holding the other with another set of pliers pull till straight and you will find that as it tensions it will then stay straight when released.
The horn was drilled out and the walls thinned with a dental burr, this was then fitted to the LHS of the hull and a wire was added which runs back over the fender to go under the hull top by the first fender support. The front fender had a Notek light fitted, which came from the Tamiya Panzer IV on vehicle equipment set, and using copper wire this was added to the stem and then run over the fender to run down the inner side. The back plate had a circular light made from plastic card using the punch and die to make two discs, one of which was punched out again to make the rim of the light when it was stuck to the top of the other. Copper wire was again used to act as the electrical lead which went from the light to pass under the fender. On the other side of the back plate the convoy position light was added and wired with the same copper wire.
