back | page 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36
The vehicle I am doing is from the Russian campaign and carried ten jerry cans, mounting two on the rear LHS fender, three on the engine deck side and five on the rear engine deck plate. For these items I had the Great Wall Hobbies German WWII 20L Jerry can set L3514 supplied by The Airbrush Company of which there is a review in the Mag – see Here Now (Link)
Looking at the parts I decided to use the plastic part and utilising the etch part between the two halves of the jerry can. The one thing that I really liked about the etch was how it was packaged. I came between to self adhesive clear strips and I pulled the top one back far enough to allow the parts I wanted to remove after cutting. When this was done the top strip was put back in place thereby holding the remaining pieces in place and minimising the chance of loss of parts.
Picture shows the etch fitted over the pins on one side of can then adhesive was applied to the holes in the other and then both side pushed together. The cap and nozzle were then stuck in place with liquid cement and then put to one side to dry.
The jerry cans on the rear engine plate were going to be the five can which come in a block in the kit but they have no engraved detail on the outer sides and another thing is that they have no base. This is shown in the kit as two other jerry cans are fixed to the outside and then the whole is used to stand on its base. As the cans will be laid on their sides a piece of plastic card was stuck across the bottom and left to dry. When this was completely dry the base was cut and sanded to the shape of the jerry cans. Lines were then engraved into the plastic card. Two cans were cut from the part and then two of the made up jerry cans were glued to each side. This now gives the five cans with detail on the outer surfaces.
The cans are held in place with a wooden board with two L shaped brackets. The wood was cut from a base wood strip and thinner to the correct thickness with a new scalpel blade and wet and dry paper. The brackets were made from strips of etch brass left over from another fret and bent using a hold and fold tool. After marking the wood with the positions of the brackets they were glued in place with Gators glue and allowed to dry. The final touch was the addition of four bolt heads. The assembly was then put to one side till ready to fix to the model.