The main wings show the canvas imitated, but not on the stabilizers. The Profile was greatly improved using abrasive papers to correct the deficiency. The rigging wire locations were drilled on the fuselage and on the wings. The rudder and the elevators are cut out using a saw razor blade and then fixed in place with cyano adhesive. The fuel port was drilled and prepared on the fuselage right side. A cover plate was cut in the shape of a disc. Aluminum foil was used for the frames taht cover the guns.
Cockpit interior
The next step is construction of the cockpit interior, because any detail is completely absent. Styrene sheet cut and used for the floor, back and front walls. The side walls were drawn fiber tube reinforcement. The control column was replaced as were the rudder pedals the stick being wrapped in aluminum foil. The pilot’s seat came from a tube of adhesive material and I formed lead foil for the straps, the buckles are thin copper wire. Raw canvas and painted with different shades of light brown for the whole cockpit interior. I glued all this into the two fuselage halves and removed any join lines.
The cocpit entry opening has a leather cover running around the edge, unfortunately, this caused a lot of headaches to get it right. A wide variety of waste materials were considered and then I came across a possible solution – a small section of lead foil glued to the edge of the cockpit opening using cyano. When you work all around, carefully covering the inner surface, the small part is attached. Using a sharp scalpel the outer arc approximately 1mm in width is cut and glued as described. Copper insulation wire is glued to the edge of the slot machine gun to improve the detail here. One final addion to the leather padding around the cockpit opening is to rivet it using a pin or pin-vice drill.
The cockpit is carefully masked and then it’s time to move onto teh engine. I thoroughly mask and then migrated to the engine retrofitting, that book of pictures.
The cylinders are scratch-built from plastic rod and detail engraved using a needle. Half-cylinders were made and attahced to the rear firewall. Black and silver were used for painting the engine and the firewall, then I dry brushed with silver. The parts of the thicker exhaust (brass colored) from the thin valve controllers were tailored to. Masks are used for engine and the the propeller shaft made with a needle. A thin brush was used for painting the wood grain on teh propeller.
Wing struts
The wing support strut profiles aren’t right so these are corrected with foil strips used for the small rings – these strengthen and brace each strut.
Machine guns
Next, I created the machine guns because these parts are not included in teh kit. I cut two thick hypodermic needle the same, gluing lead foil strips to both ends and some rubber bits used for additional detail. The finished machine guns are painted a dark grey metallic silver color and I dry-brushed to finish them off. From injection needle, candles film, sprue, and rubber slices I prepared a special double pitot tube, and also a petrol pump.
Revell glue was used for the wing struts and also some cyano glue too for extra strengthand the whole assembly set aside to dry. When dry, some careful sanding to clean up the jojns and ensure they were not visible; this all seemed to take an eternity.
Painting
Humbrol paints were used and I mixed the colors. First, the red nose and when dry I carefully masked these areas. The upper khaki followed, then two days of drying and after that masking the bottom color.
Masking tape was used for the white, red, blue order painted on the fin/rudder. A thin layer of glossy varnish then used before the Revell decals attach to it. Unfortunately, I didn’t have many spare decals but I cut some red strips for the upper wings.
Final assembly
The machine gun, pitot tube and fuel pumps were all fitted. The rigging wires were made from thin lengths of steel wore painted black. This is a lengthy task requiring concentration, but it’s worth it. Acetate film is used for the small windshield and I cut a thin wire glued on for the crosshairs sight. The tail skid is made from tin solder material. Finally, the tailplane is in place and we have one completed Korean red-nosed Camel.
Base
I glued artificial turf to the presentation base with grass clumps torn off here and there with tweezers. Some glue mixed with fine sand is added to these worn areas and small plants and flower little longer put it grass clumps scattered to add interest and look more real.
Photos and text by Robert “Apcyrobi” Serfőző from Hungary
Gallery
Below are a series of images of the completed model. Click on a thumbnail to see the enlarged image.
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