Next we apply some alternative dark colours that will add some variance to the final colour tone, e.g. some brown on the lower fuselage sides and undersides, I used Gunze Dark Earth, then some darker green on the areas where shading would be deeper, I used Gunze Olive Green. Let’s call this stage 3.
Now we have something that looks like it has been attacked by a NY Subway graffiti artist, makes me wonder if this will work or not.
Apparently the secret to success is this next stage 4, a blending coat of our original colour but not with the usual mix, this time it is literally 90/10 all thinner with just a drop or two of paint. Switching to a larger 0.3 needle airbrush setup for wide coverage, we mist this ultra thin layer across the whole model. It’s so thin that it dries almost instantly so you can keep going, coat after coat to build up the effect.
Where it would typically take two or three 50/50 coats with pre-shading and having to wait for it to dry and rub down between coats, this technique takes upwards of eight to ten coats just to get to the start of a covering finish, but no need to wait between coats. Being so thin you will also find you use far less paint.
The tonal variations start to come through, but I am not happy with the base colour, it’s just ‘too green’ and not matching my references, so what to do about that?
As you can see in comparison of the different shades used in the previous stages, the next few ultra thin coats have a few drops of Khaki added to the European green, that gives a more faded appearance, that seems to work well.
Richard Allen says
Fantastic RAF Chinook, super detailed and great guide for my current Italeri 1/48 Chinook HC2 project. Can only wish I had that talent for building!
Al Parker says
The final build is fantastic; I’m so pleased to come across this, as I got this kit today. I’m so excited to start, but even more so with your guidance; great work.