Camouflage colours and paint chipping
Now that the white is done it’s time to move to the two camouflage colors. Before we do though I’d just like to mention the importance of reference photos. While this kit was making it’s way across the ocean to me I had already begun looking at references and thinking of how I wanted this build to look. There are two options with references I find:
1. Find and exact vehicle or airframe and recreate it, or:
2. Use several references of the particular subject to get a sense of weathering patterns to use on your model.
Here I opted for the second option. It’s not too easy to find a number of good reference shots of any one particular serial numbered aircraft from WW2. Because of this I think it’s acceptable to use multiple references to draw inspiration, so that’s what I did. I will include some of the shots I used below.
Reference photos show that chipping is pretty prominent in some areas. I did want to add some chips, but I didn’t want to fall into the vogue movement of chipping the model beyond oblivion. Studying the references I decided what areas I would have chipping and began the process by laying down the metal coat. For this I used decanted Tamiya AS-12 Silver sprayed through the airbrush.
AS-12 is a sturdy and durable option here, and I find it perfect for the chipping process. Looking at the pictures you can see the areas I added it for chipping:
With the metal coat nice and dry it’s time to add a layer of hairspray. I’ve experimented with hobby labeled chipping fluids, and I’ve found they work nicely, but no better than good ole hairspray; which is significantly cheaper and easier to come by. Like the AS-12 I decant aerosol hairspray into a jar. I use Aqua Net as I’ve found more expensive hairsprays to be no better or worse.
Add the hairspray in a couple of light layers. Don’t spray it on wet and heavy or it will dry with a texture. Two or three light layers are enough.
I want to do a two-layer effect that shows a bit of primer under the main base color. I find Tamiya’s XF-4 (Yellow Green) is a close representation of the chromate yellow primer used on U.S. aircraft. Tamiya paint also chips beautifully.
The XF-4 is sprayed lightly and sparingly. I just want a small bit showing under the main color, so I don’t spray too heavily.
With the yellow down it’s time to start chipping. Don’t let the paint dry too long. Once it’s dry to the touch you’re good to go. A stiff brush and a bit of water does the work nicely. Again, I remove the bulk of the paint…think small bits of primer remaining here.
It’s time to start thinking about how I’m going to chip the main color, and how I will work my black basing technique into that. A lot of talk has revolved around the “chip-ability” of certain paint brands, and Mr. Paint is no exception. My experimentation has determined that type of paint doesn’t really matter. Lacquers, acrylics, and enamels will chip provided they are porous enough to allow water under them to disrupt the hairspray.
Mr. Paint will provide quite a hard shell if you spray it on in a fully opaque coat. I don’t want to spend too much time on my experimental process for figuring out how I would chip this paint, but suffice to say I figured out a method that works for me, so that’s what I’ll cover.
I’m going to need to work in small sections. If you try to do the whole model at once you’re going to have a bad time. The faster you get to chipping the better. So, here I’m going to start with a wing.
I loaded the airbrush with Mr. Paint Glossy Sea Blue straight from the bottle and lightly sprayed the areas where I want to chip. Ignore the rest of the wing for now.
Chip this the same as you did the yellow using a stiff brush. I also made use of an old airbrush needle to make smaller chips and scuffs along the wing root and various areas. A brush is great for large chunks, but you need the size to vary.