Out with the metallics
Humbrol Metalizer paints do not seem to be widely used by modelers. One color that I have found many uses for (especially in and around aircraft engines) is Humbrol Gunmetal. On the left we see the engine exhaust outlet after its coat of Gunmetal. On the right the only thing that has been done is that I have buffed the part/paint with a cotton bud once dry. The effect is really quite stunning as the recessed areas retain a dusty flat look, whilst the raised areas that are buffed take on a metallic sheen.
Dry-brushing
With the base painting completed on the cockpit tub, it’s time to add some detail and further weathering. Drybrushing is a technique that I really like for making a cockpit look worn. I use Testors Model Master Chrome Silver as my drybrushing paint. You can see the bottle lasts a long time as the printing has worn off the label :)
Drybrushing requires a light hand and simply involves dipping the brush into the paint and then using a cloth to wipe most of the paint away (there are various entries in the SMN Techniques Bank on weathering aircraft and how to drybrush); this leaves the brush almost dry (hence the term dry-brushing). In this pic you can see the brush has a small amount of paint left on the bristles.
The cockpit panels have been gently dry brushed to pick out the raised detail (i.e. switches etc). You can also drybrush other areas of the cockpit that come under heavy wear during operation. Rudder pedals and cockpit side walls are good candidates for heavier dry brushing. This time around I did my drybrushing before I did the detailed switch painting as I have found that small details can be lost during dry brushing.
With the major sub-assemblies complete, it’s time to start major assembly. The fit of the main sections is very good.
A top view of the model coming together. Once this lot dries, some minor clean-up of seams is needed.
Screw-ups occur when you least expect them. Can you see my dirty big fingerprint etched in plastic ??? Let’s all repeat rule #1 when it comes to spilt glue. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN IT UP UNTIL IT DRIES. Oh, yes, this effort was accompanied by several minutes of name calling and colorful language.
Notice the large gap here? This is not due to a Tamiya mistake, but my mistake. When test fitting the part it looked like it needed a small section removed from one end. Well, guess what, it didn’t. With these Tamiya kits I’m finding that whenever I get the urge to adjust a part to get a “better” fit, it’s worth taking a deep breath and have a second and third look before sanding or cutting anything – more work for me.