Washes and touch-ups
After leaving the model at least 24 hours to fully dry after weathering washes, the remaining parts were attached to the Main Hull. A few touch ups and the whole model were uniform in its appearance. I applied Formula 560 canopy glue to the port holes and bridge window frames, this was done with a brush loaded in solution and carefully applied to aperture or frame and “walked” across the frame for form a thin skin, this was left to dry ( it dries clear) and hey presto you have a clear pained in place.
The rigging was attached next using fine fishing line, the lines are under slight tension to keep them taught. Once all lines were in place them were painted using a fine brush, the running rigging (supporting lines) were painted black the signal rigging was painted a pale sand colour. The kit decal of the White Ensign was tacked into position on staff and this stage of the model was complete.
After removing the model from its temporary stand it was attached to its actual base.
Seascape
The ship was put in a slightly bow down angle as the finished item was going to be depicted in a choppy sea. The first stage of the seascape, the application of the Polyfiller was completed, the plaster being sculpted into the rough shape of the water that I wanted. The plaster I use is B&Q’s own brand interior Polyfiller (B&Q is a DIY chain of stores in UK).
The filler has to be mixed quite thickly and I apply it using an old butter knife, any excess filler that touches the sides of the hull is simply removed before drying with a flat brush dipped in clean water, (this whole process has been demonstrated at two of SMN workshops).
Once dry the edges of the base are carefully sanded to level up the edges where the plaster has overhung the edge. A coat of Payne’s Grey acrylic paint is applied next by hand, this acts has a base colour for the actual sea colour. With this dry the actual sea colours were applied using an airbrush “freehand”, the first colour is Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue, then XF-18 Medium Blue and finally XF-2 Flat White to the areas of disturbed water and crests of waves.
Arggh
It was during this phase I had a silly accident, whilst applying fine squiggles of XF-18 Medium Blue I slipped with the model in my hand as I was turning it to apply colour down the opposite side. It rolled out of my hand onto its side knocking the yard arm of the forward mast. The rigging held but the parts it was attached to a deck level didn’t resulting in a tangled mess and some “Harsh” language from me. Needless to say she was fully repaired in under a couple of hours and application of colours continued.
Phew… now a choppy sea
The next stage of my seascapes is the hand brushing onto the water of Liquitex Professional Gloss Medium and Varnish, I apply it down one side first then using cotton wool puffs to make the surface disturbed water. Taking a puff of cotton wool and unravelling it, split it down further until a piece of very thin wisps and place into position on the model and dab the medium over it, after doing the water away from hull including wash, apply slightly thicker clumps to side of hull where it joins water.
Then if making a choppy sea the bow wave, and cascading water from the decks is applied. I wanted to show also the thrashing water around the ship’s propeller as it is lifted out of the water and this is simply pieces of cotton wool cut to shape and medium applied to bases of them leaving the upper “spray” untouched for the time being.
The Bow wave was a similar procedure and the water running on and off the decks was very thin straight strands of the cotton wool. It is amazingly messy and you will have medium on your tools and finger tips. Finally once happy with waves ordinarily hair lacquer was heavily applied to the bursting water and decks of the model. Once dry (the hair lacquer firms up the spray to handle the application of clear varnish via an airbrush to these crests and seascape. Its takes several applications until the correct “sheen” is achieved, remember thrashing water doesn’t look glossy its semi-gloss in appearance.
Figures
The remaining job to do on the model was to add some crew figures and for this I used railway figures from the German company Preiser from their “N” gauge range of figures its actually 1:160th scale but near enough. The figures are injection moulded with some being multi part assemblies ( separate heads and arms). I chose ten figures and carefully assembled and mounted each onto the end of a cocktail stick to paint. They were sprayed in a pale buff colour ( XF-57 Buff +XF-2 Flat White) before picking in details by hand. They were coated in Vallejo Matt Varnish were washes were applied. Once dry they were removed from sticks and placed onto the model.