Achieving success every time…
Before we get to specifically using the above products, it’s worth being clear about the process and basic steps needed to ensure all your markings will (or at least should) look like they’ve been painted on – exactly what we are after.
Decals should be applied to a gloss surface – sorry if you disagree but you are simply asking for trouble if you apply your decals to anything other than a high gloss finish. These then are are my suggested and proven set of steps to follow when applying decals:
- Spray your model with whatever paint you like and leave to dry thoroughly. If using acrylics, these usually dry with a flat or light sheen and you will need to gloss your model with a gloss varnish before applying your decals.
If you are using gloss paint, like gloss enamel, then again you should end up with a high gloss finish when your paint dries, if not apply a gloss varnish after you paint has dried thoroughly and leave all to dry for at least a day. - Gloss varnish your model (as above, if required) and allow to dry thoroughly for at least a day
- Prepare your decal – cut it from the decal sheet and leave a border around the decal, making sure you don’t cut away the carrier film (a thin clear border that’s usually visible – don’t worry if you can’t see this border, it’s just good news as you have less of a problem with any potential ‘silvering’ – see above). Having said this, if using an old decal sheet or one that has a very obvious, thick carrier film border, sometimes it’s worth trimming this away before application
- Float your decal on lukewarm water – try not to submerge it as the glue on the top of the decal paper will be lost into the water and you need this adhesive to help your decal adhere properly
- Use your decal softening/setting solution and lightly wet the area where your marking is to be placed. Ultimate Normal should be ideal for most decaling tasks
- Apply your decal and position it carefully with a very slightly dampened finger (works for me!)
- Use a clean paintbrush with flat bristles and working from the centre, gently work outwards from the centre to remove excess water and decal setting solution
- Use a cotton bud to gently roll over the surface to gently work the decal into the surface detail – be very careful and usually this is only a brief task to make sure the decal is seated properly and the excess fluid removed
- Leave for about 5 minutes and then apply more of your decal setting solution over the top of your decal. There may be a little wrinkling, this is normal and leave well alone and resist the temptation to touch the decal at this critical stage in the process
- Carry on and apply more decals and keep an eye on those you have already applied and notice if they are softening and drawing down over the moulded kit detail? Don’t be impatient, just keep an eye on progress and after 15-20 minutes (or sooner) you should see the decals starting to draw down and if so, great, you are done for the decal application for now.
- More decal softening solution may be needed – If the decals are struggling to draw down over and into the moulded detail, apply more decal softening/setting solution, carefully with a paintbrush – you may need to ‘encourage’ thicker decals to draw down but be careful, very careful that you don’t press too hard and start to break up the very delicate markings
- Leave alone for at least 24 hours!
- Inspect your decals and see if you’ve been successful – i.e. the decals are dry and have drawn down over and into the surface detail?
If yes, you should use a clean tissue dampened with water to remove any stains from the water/glue/solution mix if apparent – although this should mostly have been removed in Step 8 above
If no, then you can apply a stronger decal softening/setting solution and Ultimate Strong or Extra Strong should do the trick - Leave for a further 24 hours – If applying more solution in Stage 13 above leave for a further 24 hours
- More gloss varnish. You are now ready to add another coat of gloss varnish. This is a really important stage in the process because it seals in your decal and, importantly, creates a uniform texture and layer for your painting/decaling. Some decals have quite a flat finish to them (horrible!) and if you don’t add a coat of gloss varnish the decal and carrier film will be very evident when you apply your final coat of varnish (Stage 17) and ruin the look of your model
- Leave alone for at least 24 hours
- Final finish – choose your type…You can now think about adding weathering products such as oil washes etc and/or apply your top coat of varnish – whatever finish you are looking for: flat, satin, or gloss (the look you have now might be sufficient, your call).
The 3 Ultimate Decal Solutions…
You will see for the above stages where you can use the solutions and each is just progressively stronger, in other words more aggressive in softening the decal to help it conform to the surface detail. Take extra care when using the Strong and especially the Extra Strong solutions and you should avoid too much working of the decal, perhaps even avoid that altogether. When you apply the Extra Strong solution, the decal will become very soft and this is good as it should help with that stubborn (usually raised) detail. So avoid too much contact once it is applied.
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